Why must build own awesome henhouse for chickens
So you’re wondering how to build a hen house? In general, the principle of building a chicken coop for chicks is that you should make it your weekend project because it can turn you into a self-employed worker with basic carpentry skills.
Do you want to build your own hen house? Well, you may think that such a thing is quite easy, but you’d be surprised to learn that chicken houses aren’t as easy to build as one might think. If you’re considering building a chicken coop, you may want to find some hen house designs and plans. These plans can be found online or ordered from other sources. The best designs will guide you step-by-step through the entire process of building.
If you look for information, or tips on the Internet, for example, you will find lots of plans for chicken coops in the backyard. This location is a great place to look for inspiration, but you should note that all cages have two main components: sleeping, laying eggs, or playing and jumping as they pass the time during the day. The enclosed space should open directly to the run but should be elevated at least two feet above it so there is space to collect the droppings that fall through the floor. (More on that in a moment.) There are many possible ways to configure a coop, but here’s how to build a basic model that can easily be customized according to your aesthetic tastes.
Before we start, you need to remember that we will show you how to make a basic and functional chicken pen that works well for your needs. But there are many awesome chicken pen designs out there that you might want to look at first if you wish to build something that is unique.
Why can’t you draw your own hen house designs?
Well, that’s certainly a possibility if you’ve studied how chicken pens should be put together and if you’re an experienced carpenter. Since most people are not, however, designing their own coop is not a good idea. This is because chicken coops are actually much more complex than most people realize. Hen hutches have to be properly ventilated, for example. If they aren’t, it can be quite a shock to the nose upon entering one. Chickens will leave feathers, excrement, and more all over the floor of your coop. Rotten eggs may also occur if you don’t collect them often enough. This can all combine to make a very rank smell. Keeping your coop ventilated will help cut down on these smells and can keep your chickens healthier. You’ll also want to know how to build your coop so that it’s easy to clean out all the waste that accumulates.
The proper location
You also need to learn how to properly situate your chicken coop in raising your backyard. You will want to be sure that it’s not exposed to the elements and has some sort of protection from the rain and snow. The hutch will need to have windows to allow light and ventilation, but you’ll also need some way of closing these windows if it starts to storm. Properly written hen house designs will instruct you on how to do this.
Your chicken pen plans should cover more than just constructing the pen, however. They should also talk about creating the yard surrounding it. Your chicken hutch yard may need to include a watering system, a place to store your chicken feed, and more. It’s also very important to build a fence around your hen hutch to keep out animals that may attack your chicken. This fence has to be partially buried to keep animals from digging under it. All of this information should be included in any plans you purchase. If it’s not, you may want to look for other plans.
Plans and blueprints for amazing chicken coops
If you are serious about building a house for your hens, you should start looking for chicken pen plans before you begin. The plans and the step-by-step guide that comes with them will tell you everything you need to purchase to build the best possible coop. This is the absolute best way of building your chicken coop. Make certain the plans were constructed by an experienced carpenter.
If you’re looking for hen house designs like this, then we might have a lot to help you with! We will share with you some of the best resources out there that will help you reach past your goals by providing you with all the knowledge you need to know. Each one of the following companies provides different bonuses about very interesting and important things that you will need in your journey! So, you might want to take a look at all of them before deciding which one to get.
Step 1: Plan for Size and Location
The first thing to consider is size. The accepted minimum sizes are 2 to 3 square feet per bird inside the chook shed and 4 to 5 square feet per bird in the run. However, extra space is always better—just like humans, chickens are prone to squabbling when they’re packed in tight quarters at all times.
Chickens need shade in the heat of the day, so locating the hen house under a large deciduous tree is ideal—they will be cool in summer and can bask in the sun during winter once the leaves have dropped. If a site under a large tree is not available, you’ll have to shade the run with a shade cloth.
Step 2: Build the Frame
As with most outbuildings, the simplest approach is, to begin with, a rectangular frame and then add on the various components that are needed. Use naturally rot-resistant lumber—such as cedar or redwood—rather than pressure-treated lumber which contains heavy metals, like arsenic, that may be harmful to your chicken’s health. The open-air run should be covered with chicken wire (metal mesh) on all sides to prevent predators from entering.
Guide to Build the Frame hen house
- Arrange four 4×4 vertical posts in the concrete in a rectangular shape based on the size of the cage you need (example 4 feet by 8 feet or 6 feet by 12 feet or 8 by 16 feet, for example).
- Cut the posts so that the front is 8 feet high and the back is 6 feet high in preparation for installing the pitched roof over the covered section.
- Then make a 4×4 post 2 feet from the front right corner of the rectangle. This post is to support the gate that will serve as the entrance for running and must be 8 feet high.
- Next step – Nail or screw 2×4 horizontally between the posts in the right front corner of the run at 6 feet.
- Here you have to create a gate frame to fit the entrance space (2 by 6 feet rectangle) using 2×2 wood. It’s nothing more than a 2x2s rectangle screwed or nailed together.
- Use an anti-sag gate kit to prevent the 2×2 frame from sagging.
- Attach the gate frame to the corner posts with galvanized gate hinges.
- Add a pair of parallel 4×4 posts about a third of the distance from the left side of the rectangle. (For example, if the chicken coop is 12 feet wide, these posts will be 4 feet away from the posts in the far left corner of the posts.) . Its uses are: these poles are to support the closed frame of the cage. Make it match the height of the other front and back posts.
- Install a 2×4 horizontal frame between the tops of all posts along the front and back sides of the structure, and add three more at the angle between the three taller front posts and the shorter back posts as rafters.
- Attach the 2x4s horizontal frame to the four posts on the left side of the rectangle 24 inches above ground level. This will support the floor of the enclosed area.
- Add floorboard on top of the 2×4 frame in the front two thirds of the structure, fixing it with galvanized nails or decking screws.
- Cover the back third of the floor with chicken wire. The chickens will perch on top of this part of the floor and the hard cloth will allow the droppings to fall so they can be collected from below.
- Dig a 12-inch trench around the perimeter of the track.
- Make sure the chicken wire is stretched between the posts for the running area in the right two-thirds of the rectangle, vertically between the posts (as the walls) and horizontally (as the ceiling), using poultry staples to attach them to the wooden frame.
- Attach the chicken wire so that it goes into the bottom of the trench for protection against diggers and backfill the trench with soil to hold it in place.
- Cover the gate frame with chicken wire as well.
- And lastly don’t forget to wear gloves when working with chicken wire because the edges are sharp.
Step 3: Outfit the Interior
The interior of the run needs nothing more than a thick layer of straw over the ground to absorb chicken droppings and moisture when it rains. Tips for watering equipment — you can hang it on one of the rafters (preferably a wire stud attached to a nail) so the chickens can drink when they are outside especially during the day. (The bottom of the waterer should be 6 to 8 inches above ground level.). If the flow is not smooth during the hottest hours of the day, add also another layer of fabric such as shade over the chicken wire ceiling. Build a gently sloping ramp at least 8 inches wide from the ground level up to the platform for the enclosed area.
Before this area is enclosed, outfit it with the following items:
Step outfit interior It’s a good idea to build a 2×2 log nesting rod along the back wall just above the chicken wire floor (say you want to make it at least 8 inches long per bird).
Nest boxes (at least one 12 inch square box for every 4 birds).
A watering device and a feeder (hang them 6 to 8 inches above the floor of the chicken pen with baling wire attached to nails that are pounded into one of the roof rafters).
An incandescent bulb to extend the laying season (optional).
Locate the nest boxes along the front wall at least 24 inches above the floor. These can be as simple as wooden shelves with plywood dividers that are filled with straw.
Add a 2-inch piece of wood across the front of the boxes to keep the straw from spilling out. There are also prefabricated nest boxes available, though some chicken keepers use plastic kitty litter boxes for nests because they
are easy to remove and clean periodically.
The roosts should be positioned higher than the nests.
Chickens are descended from tree-dwelling jungle fowl and will always seek out the highest point to sleep (and the nests will quickly become soiled if the chickens use them for roosting).
Step 4: Finish the Exterior
Well, the next step is time to add a roof and walls to enclose the nesting and roosting area. Any weatherproof material may be used, but tin is an easy, yet fashionable, the choice for the roof, and wood siding makes a quaint exterior for the walls. (Additional 2×4 framing will be necessary for the walls and roof structure.) When you build the walls, make sure to plan for easy access to collect eggs and clean the hen house. All-access points should be lockable with raccoon-proof latches—a typical gate latch with a carabiner in the turnbuckle is usually sufficient to foil these masked bandits.
Plan for access on three sides:
- Step one – Make a door with a size of 12×12 inches where it is the entrance of the chicken from the run.
- 12×12 inch hatches along the front wall to access the nests for egg collection.
- A 2×5 foot door on the left wall to access the water and feeder and for cleaning out the coop.
- The three types of access doors may be constructed with a simple 2×2 frame in the same fashion as the main entry gate to the chicken run. Instead of covering them with chicken wire, use the same material that was used for the exterior of the coop. (No anti-sag kit will be needed in this case.)
- Ventilation is extremely important in summer. The chicken door and the portion of the floor covered with wire mesh will allow air in from below, but there are also needs to be a place for hot air to exit at the top.
- Either leave space between the eaves of the roof and the top of the walls or cut vents near the top of the walls. In either case, makes sure these spaces are covered with chicken wire to keep critters out.
- So there you have it, you should now know exactly how to make a chicken pen. These are the basics of a functional coop, but feel free to customize it and glorify it any way you like.
- Ornate trimwork, gaudy knick-knacks, and colorful artwork are all par for the course in the world chicken coop décor.